The battery is an amazing electrical device. This nondescript item with no movable parts is an essential part of the car. Read on to see how you can keep it running in tip top condition with little fuss.

How does it work?

The car battery is a rechargeable device that generates electrical energy from a chemical reaction. These batteries are commonly referred to as SLI (Starter-Lighting-Ignition) batteries because they are primarily used for these purposes.

Batteries generate electrical energy from a chemical process. These batteries are usually use a lead-acid method. Within the battery are six galvanic cells made of lead and lead oxide. Each of these cells generate 2.1 volts each, totaling 12.6 volts. These cells are immersed in a electrolyte solution made of 35% sulfuric acid and 65% pure water.

When the cells interact with the electrolyte solution, electrons are release to move among the plates, which creates electricity. This has the added effect of changing the composition of the cells, creating lead sulfate.

This process is reversed as the battery is being recharged by the alternator. This time lead sulfate returns to its state of lead and lead oxide.

Faulty batteries can seriously degrade the performance and shorten the lifespan of your car.

How to check your batteries

To check the battery, follow these steps:

Remove caps from the battery (if you have them). Some lead acid batteries may be sealed so skip this step. Older lead-acid batteries are refillable.

Look inside the battery. Check the condition of the plates and especially the water level.

Refill the water. If the water isn’t reaching the top of the plates, refill the battery with distilled water. DO NOT fill the battery past the cells.

Clean the terminals of deposits and buildup. To prevent electrocution, REMOVE the terminals off the battery before wiping off the sulfur. Make sure you do not contact the material on your skin. USE CAUTION. Use a rag and a used toothrush.

Dry off the battery. Dry the battery with a lint-free rag.

Coat the terminals with petroleum jelly to prevent corrosion.

Check the cables for fraying or damage. Replace or seal with electrical tape if damage is minor.

Check the case for cracking. Replace if serious cracks are found regardless of electrical performance.

If you encounter weak to dim lights, use a battery tester. A low indication may show low acidity in the battery.

How do I dispose of the battery?

DO NOT dump in the regular trash. Batteries are hazardous to the environment, its sulfur acid and lead contents are toxic to plant, man and animal alike. Make sure you bring them to the nearest battery center when you buy a new one. Batteries are recyclable so you can use this to get a discount from the dealer.

There you have it, simple, isn’t it?

Big kahuna intakes or parallel twin turbo? That’s not important for now if you have a shoestring budget. The first thing you should consider is how fuel efficient is it? Then whether gas or diesel. Read on!

Turbocharging is the method with internal combustion engines to use a vehicle’s exhaust gases to cram force-induced compressed air into the engine. This concept follows the idea that a normal internal combustion engine’s ability to use air to power a combustion cycle is limited to the negative pressure its pistons creates to draw air in from the outside unaided.

However, with the turbocharger, more air mass is forced into the engine, thereby making the engine burn much more efficiently, and hence performs much better.

Comparatively, turbochargers are used more often in diesel engines due to the following characteristics:

- Normal diesel engines are designed to be over-built, helping it withstand higher pressures and heat from the start.
- Diesel engine power outputs are less compared to gasoline engines which require less pressure from turbochargers to produce more power.
- Diesel engines are not limited by the octane ratings of gasoline as diesel engine are designed to pump fuel into its combustion chamber only at the moment of ignition.
- Are proven to be fuel-efficient than diesel engines with no turbocharger. In diesel engines, more air compressed into the engine results in greater fuel efficiency.

Practically, there is little downside to owning a turbodiesel vehicle.

Turbocharged gasoline engines, though, may perform better than turbodiesels but require more consideration for balance and maintenance.

On the other hand, installing turbochargers in gasoline engines have the following caveats:

- Gasoline engines are lighter than diesel engines. Forcing air into engines has the added effect of “overclocking” the engine, increasing heat and pressure above normal specifications.
- Adding a turbocharger to a car is more expensive than buying a car with a stock turbocharger as upgrades to other parts of the car are needed to bear the added heat, pressure, torque and power.
- Gas turbochargers have to take into account the octane ratings and autoignition temperatures of its fuels.
- Gasoline engines spray gas and air into the combustion chamber at the same time it is being compressed. The act of compressing the air with already compressed air from the turbocharger may detonate a low octane gas prematurely.
- Maintenance is high, which limits gas turbochargers to high performance vehicles.

So how can I turbocharge my vehicle more fuel efficient without spending so much more?

Buy a turbodiesel. Hands down turbocharged diesels have the advantage by the price of diesel nowadays, the very design of diesel engines, and the way it saves diesel the more air you pump into the engine! Turbodiesel vehicles have a good resale value so don’t expect rock bottom prices, but expect years of good use from even an old turbodiesel. Best value for money!

Buy gasoline vehicles with turbo already installed. Face it. Unless you’re a car enthusiast, installing a turbocharger in a car will cost you too much!

Buy smaller gasoline vehicles with turbo installed. There are smaller vehicles in the market that sell units with turbochargers to maximize the small size of the engine. Look up units in the Volvo and Saab lines.

Consider alternative fuels. You can use alternate fuels such as a hydrogen-on-demand (HOD) or Oxyhydrogen (HHO)  system to supplement a smaller turbocharger and engine tandem. This system creates hydrogen (H2) and oxygen (O2) gas on demand from a water medium to mix with the air and fuel in the combustion chamber for even better performance.

What does an HHO system do?
Hydrogen when compressed and introduced to an internal combustion engine:
-Releases more energy than ethanol-based mixes, maintaining the overall power of the car
-Burns the fuel more completely which gives cleaner emissions
-Raises the octane level of the fuel, preventing knocking, making the engine quieter
-Lowers overall engine temperature slightly
-Requires the engine to use less gas per cycle

Is it safe?
HHO systems generate hydrogen only on demand and are therefore safe. When no electricity is routed through the HOD system, no reaction is generated. No hydrogen is in storage in this system but is kept in medium, which is basically water.

Cost?
Parts are sourced from everyday parts found in hardware shops and basic electronics stores. Total cost for a basic unit can range between $70 to over $200 USD.
What’s offered by most HOD enterprises are plans for do-it-yourself systems, with offers to build the system for the consumer if they so wish. This way the customer can opt to build it himself or to buy a unit once the concept is understood after obtaining the plans to prevent fraud.

For more information on HHO systems, increasing fuel economies, and support, please visit this link to save gas.

One of the easiest and cost-saving activities you can do to your car is service it yourself. This article is a part of a series of do-it-yourself (DIY) guides that teach you to “fish” and save you money.

Getting started

Changing oil is so easy, you will kick yourself wondering why you give up your hard-earned money to let a mechanic do it.

You need a few things handy:

Fresh motor oil – make sure you choose the correct oil rated for your car. You can find this out by checking the user’s manual or asking the manufacturer’s service center.

New oil filter – when you change the oil, change the oil filter as well to clutter your brain less and to keep the oil run cleaner for the duration of the oil’s life cycle till the next service period.

Adjustable wrench – use this tool to remove the drain plug.

Drain plug gasket – some oil filter packages come with these so check with your auto parts seller. Some cars do not require a gasket, usually the tapered ones. You can check the first time you remove the drain plug to see if something comes with it taken off.

Oil catcher – you can use a tray with a garbage bag on top that can hold 5 gallons to catch the oil that drains off the oil pan.

A funnel! – yes this handy kitchen device will save you tons of concentrating to pouring the oil through that hole on top of the engine.

Rags – to wipe the spillage, and they do spill.

Work lights – they help you see better. Working in a well-lighted and well-ventilated environment can save your health and eyesight.

All set? Here we go!

Follow this procedure in sequence:

1. Start your engine for 3-5 minutes. This gets the oil all ready to flow and with it to bring all the muck and goop that built up all this time inside.

2. Look for the drain plug under the car. This is usually a large nut at the bottom of the engine.

3. Unscrew the drain plug using the wrench until its ready to drop at the last turn. This is to prevent oil from spilling all over you. Once you’re positioned, make sure the oil tray is under and a bit forward of the drain plug, then release the plug. You can let it drop into the tray since you can retrieve it. If the plug is too hot, leave it to cool for a few minutes.

4. Remove the cap from the oil filler on top.

5. Unscrew the oil filter by hand. If it’s too tight you may have to use a rag for traction or worse, you need an oil filter wrench if it’s beyond your arm strength.

6. Open the new bottle of motor oil. Take the wrapping off the new oil filter.

7. Dip a finger in the motor oil and moisten the oil filter gasket. Then screw the oil filter back in. Turn it in until it starts becoming tight, then turn a final three-quarter turn to seal.

8. Use rag to wipe the drain plug hole.

9. Replace the drain plug and use the wrench to tighten it. If your car uses a gasket, make sure it is inserted with the drain plug before tightening.

10. Fill the engine with new motor oil via the oil filler hole on top. Use the funnel for convenience.

11. Replace oil filler cap and start the engine. Let the engine idle for 30 to 60 seconds and check for leaks in the drain plug and the oil filter. Do not REV the engine at this time. Let the oil circulate.

12. Check the oil gauge indicator for an okay.

13. Turn off engine. Wait 5-10 minutes for the oil to settle back into the oil pan.

14. Pull out the oil dipstick and wipe it with the rag. Re-insert the dipstick in the engine and pull it out again. Check the oil level on the dipstick. Keep adding more oil and use the dipstick to check until it reaches the “FULL” indicator. Do not overfill.

15. Take away the oil tray and set aside.

16. Start the car and drive around the block twice. Then park and recheck the dipstick and oil gauge indicator. Refill if necessary.

And you’re done.

Post-oil change, take the oil filter and old motor oil to a service station for disposal. Never throw away these items in normal trash or dispose of the dirty oil in the drain. This is TOXIC WASTE.

There you have it. Simple steps to change your oil. Easy and low-cost. 

Air filters are devices which strain air through a membrane to separate particulates from the air that normally goes into an internal combustion engine. This is to prevent these particulates, such as dust, fiber, pollen and such to contaminate sensitive and hard-to-reach parts of the engine.

Air filters are judged according to two types of attributes: filtration and flow.

Filtration is the ability of the filter to separate particulates from the air. Flow is the ability of the filter to let air move through the filter element with minimal restriction, including the piping that guide air through the air filter and beyond.

Filtration elements are normally composed of paper, cotton, foam, and cloth components.

Paper. This is the most common and cheapest form of filter available. They are efficient, idiot-proof and costs less than other types of filters. The filter is normally a wide, round cylindrical shape about 3 inches in high. Particulates are easily spotted on the pleats of the air filter and can be cleaned off for further use. Paper filters have a shorter use life and are considered easily disposable.

Foam. Foam filters are oil-damp polyurethane elements. These are usually used in rally-type environments with the capacity to trap lots of dust.

Cotton. Oiled-cotton gauze filters are usually found in performance after-market air filters. Employs multiple layers supported by a metal mesh to trap dust and particulates.

Cloth. Cloth are oil-wetted as well and are considered on the same level as cotton-gauze filters. They also employ the same layering as cotton-gauze and are reusable to the point of just washing and re-oiling them.

When air flow is considered, the “plumbing” of the air filter system must be observed. What manufacturers usually attached to air filter systems is a complex set of pipes that flow up and down to slow down air flow somewhat. The purpose of this is to reduce ambient noise, sometimes at the cost of fuel efficiency.

After-market performance components have solved these problems by doing away with the plumbing system entirely and going for a more simplified straight or curved piping system topped with the filter element. This immediately shows better performance over the plumbing-type system but these do not filter out particulates as well.

Some after-market performance filter components usually include cone-shaped filters for cotton and cloth filters, mushroom-shaped filters for foam elements, and some two-stage hybrid filters, which clean out air much more efficiently but at the cost of some air flow.

Being a driver of a motor vehicle has its advantages. You can go anywhere you want without waiting for the bus, the tram, or anybody else.

Yes, even owning a car is a sociological status symbol. The more prestigious the brand, most of the world thinks you’ve made it.

But now there’s a pressing problem from cars that comes from a constantly consumable called gas (or petrol, if you live in a Commonwealth country).

Gas is a definite problem. Why? Because the price of gas has been steadily climbing since the last century and there’s no sign of it stopping.

For proof, take a look at the chart at the bottom of this page. For the US alone, the price of gas on average is now going over $3.53 USD a gallon!

There is a strong and real need to find a solution for our need to transportation. It’s not enough to simply buy a Toyota Prius!

Most people cannot even afford to buy a Prius for one thing! And what about the car you have? Should you just junk it or sell it off?

For most people that would be unacceptable.

I love driving independently, and if there was a way for me to keep on driving while lowering overhead costs even more, in a legal way, why not?

So here I am, writing a blog about cars and finding ways to make your car run better and using as little gas as possible.

I own a Toyota Unser (or Revo, whichever part of the world you come from) and I am using an HHO Booster on my engine.

My Toyota Unser (Revo) Kitted With An HHO Booster

As a fellow consumer, gas is one of the biggest repetitive expenses that we pay for every month. I spend about over $110 USD in a month and I aim lose more of it if I can.

So goes my experimentation with HHO.

More to come. Rest assured that HHO does work.

But this blog is not just about HHO anyway.

Stay tuned.

Regards,

Irwin

Due to a total system failure from my previous hosting service (Myriad Networks, never buy from them! Crap service!), I’m going to redo everything from the ground up!

It’s not a totally bad thing, really.

Now I can implement the changes I’ve wanted from the last blog. Awesome. Let’s see what happens, shall we?

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Save Petrol Fast is about using technology to save that precious liquid gold called gas (petrol).

With the rate things are going, gas is going to get scarcer and scarcer.

So this blog is not about changing what’s out there: government policy, OPEC, getting Big Oil to lower prices, and all other external stuff.

It’s what you can do right here right now: what you should know, what you should do, why you should do it.

Change comes from each one of us, and with a little help from each other, we can make things a little better where we are.

This blog is about information. If you have information out there that’s worth sharing, let me know and I’ll see if it’s worth posting.

All the best!

See you again in a few!

Irwin